massive sharp shoulders of dark rock rising above a landscape carved by ice sheets. The latest one receded from northern Sweden some 9,000 years ago—so recently that the bedrock, relieved of its ...

Sweden's long, cold nights might put you off going there in winter, unless, that is, you are in search of that elusive 21st-Century luxury: a good night's sleep.

Once a beacon of peace and prosperity, Sweden is now grappling with growing violence and political polarization.